Guide to Fabrics
A Guide to Footwear
Blown Rubber -- 40% lighter than solid rubber; the addition of air makes for a softer, more cushioned landing
Burnishing -- producing a bright glossy finish on leather by means of friction or preheated machinery
Calf Leather -- offers fine grain, suppleness and exceptional durability
Dual Density Midsoles -- two different densities of foam within the same midsole; allows manufacturers to fine-tune performance by creating different levels of support or cushioning
Polyurethane -- any of various resins, widely varying in flexibility, used in tough chemical-resistant coatings, adhesives, and foams
EVA -- ethylene vinyl acetate blended with synthetic rubber to become lightweight
Full-Grain Leather -- skins where only the hair has been removed, leaving the natural surface grain unchanged
Gore-Tex® -- waterproof, windproof, and breathable; a composite of a completely waterproof polymer film
Kidskin Leather -- offers fine grain and suppleness
Midsole -- usually made of foam and responsible for a shoe’s cushioning capability; located between the upper and the outsole
Nappa Leather -- leather that is remarkably soft and supple
Neoprene -- synthetic rubber, polychloroprene
Nubuck -- grain leather that has been slightly brushed on the surface to create a very fine velvet-like appearance
P.U. Sole -- polyurethane sole which is lightweight, flexible, hard wearing and has shock-absorbing qualities
Patent Leather -- fine-grain leather specially treated with polyurethane to create an exceptionally glossy finish
PVC -- polyvinyl chloride - a synthetic plastic widely used for soling and coated upper materials
Shank -- a bar that supports and strengthens the shoe in the small of the foot between heel and front part; can be steel, plastic or wood
Shearling -- sheepskin with the wool
Suede Leather -- leather with a buffed underside, giving a textured appearance
T.P.U. Post -- a stability device made of thermoplastic urethane placed medially in the heel of the midsole to add pronation (inward roll of the foot) control and/or laterally to control supination (outward roll of the foot)
Thermoplastic Rubber -- a synthetic rubber that can be fused by heat and therefore processed into soles by injection moulding
Top-Grain Leather -- the uppermost layer in a hide; thin tightly woven fibers give this leather its waterproofing qualities; smooth appearance and less abrasion-resistant than rough-out leather
Vulcanized Rubber -- raw rubber treated by milling with sulphur and heat to allow for moulding and to increase durability and inhibit deterioration
A Guide to Leathers
Find the leather that's just right for you…and your style!
Lambskin -- soft, buttery texture and lightweight
Cowhide -- heavy and durable
Pigskin -- commonly used for suede
Split -- when a thick hide is split, this term refers to the top surface which looks like suede but is not as soft
Suede -- leather that is finished by buffing the underside of a hide to produce a velvet-like nap
Distressed Leather -- buffing surface to create uneven coloration and markings for a weathered look
Leather Care Tips
Leather ages gracefully and can last a lifetime with proper care right from the start.
- Always hang leather garments on wide or padded hangers to maintain their shape. Use shoetrees in footwear and stuff empty handbags with tissue to help retain their shape.
- Never store leather goods in plastic or other non-breathable covers. This will cause leather to become dry.
- Allow wet or damp leather to air-dry naturally away from any heat source. Leather can be treated with a conditioner to restore flexibility while suede can be brushed with a terry towel to restore its look.
- In winter, promptly remove salt deposits from garments and footwear by sponging with clear water, then follow with the above treatment for wet or damp leather.
- Avoid very humid and dry environments as well as direct sunlight.
- Do not use waxes, silicone products or other leather preparations that impair a garment's ability to breathe.
- Wrinkles should hang out. If ironing is desired, set iron on rayon setting, use heavy brown wrapping paper as a pressing cloth on right side of the garment and a quick hand to prevent overheating and shine.
- Avoid spraying perfumes or hair sprays while wearing your garment and do not apply pins, adhesive badges or tape. Wearing a scarf at the neckline will help keep hair and body oil away from the collar.
- Hems may be fixed with a tiny amount of rubber cement. For best results see a leather care professional.
All products designed to be used at home should be tested on an inconspicuous part of the garment.